Every fashion week has seen strong vinyl looks this season, but none have been quite as expertly sleazy as London’s. Christopher Kane dominated with the majority of his matte nylon dresses contrasting subtly with ruched and baggy PVC overcoats. Disheveled models in slick vinyl skirt suits sauntered down a runway perfectly located in a deserted London office building. The cavernous space provided a sterile backdrop for beyond 9-5 dressing. At Fyodor Golan, the scene was decidedly after-hours, where severe head-to-toe vinyl outfits shone holographic in the spotlights. Set atop plush pink astroturf the carnal stylings juxtaposed a sense of pleasure and pain. In contrast, the a-line vinyl pieces at Erdem and the midi PVC circle skirts at Emilio de la Morena look as if they were made for the madam.
Fashion weeks’ MVP is French model, Josephine Le Tutour. Crazy enviable bone structure and eyebrows to die for, Le Tutour has walked a staggering number of shows this season and the number will only continue to rise. To say her look is versatile is to only skim the surface of her strengths. She’s utterly convincing as everything from all-American mall girl to stately noblewoman, from innocent Pollyanna to smoldering Domme. Something to do with the golden ratio between the softness of her eyes and the imposing boldness of her brows, surely.
(Photo: Delpozo’s official Facebook page)
A Wednesday gift from Delpozo to us. You may have gotten a quick look at these lustrous babes from our story on the Delpozo show at NYFW last week. They looked exceptional paired with the retro-future feminine looks but up close they’re strong enough to wear alone. Or if you’re not harbouring nudist tendencies, a pair of black culottes and paper-thin T-shirt works too. I can’t say enough about everything that makes these shoes so memorable: the unexpected pointed toe, the subtle shine of the leather, the modest platform peeking out from under the foot , and of course, the metallic glow of the gold and magenta leather embellishments. All of these elements combine to give the shoes a distinct superhero vibe, and what woman doesn’t want to feel like that?
Turtlenecks are never not in style, but at NYFW’s AW 2014 presentations they were trending specifically as under-layers, peeking out of structured outfits or grounding drapier looks. The skin-tight versions provided a canvas for a number of designers to build on. Every one of Marc by Marc Jacobs‘ riot grrrl cosmonauts was sent down the runway with a white or black turtleneck underneath their future-feminist get ups. At Rodarte, strange patchwork-clad gowns were pulled over spandex stripey variants. Proenza Schouler crafted boxy top-heavy silhouettes by layering thick, speckled turtlenecks under curvaceous blazers and Karen Walker styled her turtlenecks under collared shirts, smock tops, and mod dresses for a late-60s high school art teacher vibe. Models in Opening Ceremony‘s show sported the trend ever so subtly under multiple bundled layers and there was not one bare neck at Alexander Wang and only a couple at Organic by John Patrick. Don’t get left out in the cold, this is a look you can easily replicate while the weather’s still nasty and before everyone starts copping the style next Fall.
Hood By Air designer Shayne Oliver dedicated FUCCBOI, the short film accompanying his FW’14 line, to “all the FUCCBOIs who shred the status quo with aggression and lush energies.” Legendary already at age 26, Oliver has stuck to his agenda since HBA’s inception in 2006. Repping his world is Oliver’s work, and it’s created a culture of fandom. Stemming from the marginalization of subcultures during the explosion of bottle clubs in New York, Oliver and his friends started throwing GHE20GOTH1K parties to encourage the city’s disparate cliques to meld for one night. It was there that Oliver began conceptualizing his line, fostering relationships and developing looks by gaining inspiration from those he’d meet. In recent years the line has received attention from a wider audience through being tied to new style icons and associated with A$AP Rocky and Been Trill brands of cool. But his celebrity associations aren’t simple corporate collaborations, through knowledge of the history behind Oliver’s designs, they feel authentic. A$AP’s mob attend GHE20GOTH1K raves, and two members were in Oliver’s lookbook back in 2008.The perceived overnight success of the brand means that new fans may lack an awareness of his longstanding work, understanding the work on an entirely different level. FUCCBOI and HBA’s runway presentations help to educate these masses on the subversive essence of the brand, dispelling any assumptions that HBA is just another logo fad.
(Obaku silver watch, Forever 21 gold cuff, Durumi sunglasses and gold ring)
Some silver and gold details from yesterday’s shoot. We had a lot of fun soaking up the winter rays and cold wind. Can’t wait until it’s nothing but sunshine and white slips and a different pair of shades everyday of the week.
New York and London Fashion Weeks have come and gone and Milan Fashion Week ends today. I’ve had the opportunity to view and obsess over a ton of exciting and truly beautiful collections, as well as some uninspired and poorly-executed ones. An attempt was made to cull the most fashion forward and personally appealing looks from the shows so far and present them to you here.
The looks seen above were chosen from one of my favourite collections from NYFW, by American designer Jeremy Scott. Tapping into the as-popular-as-ever sportswear trend and infusing it with his trademark tongue-in-cheek style, the collection is varied texturally and looks super fun to wear, even for the non-Kpop star crowd. Cozy is the name of the game this season and I’ve yet to see anything I’d rather drape myself with than those bomb-ass fuzzy sports jersey knits.