Astrid Andersen turned to fellow Dane Nicolas Winding Refn’s Only God Forgives as inspiration for her FW’2014 menswear. The film juxtaposes violent brutality with silky mystic visuals—Andersen’s show plays with this idea, evoking a sense of conflict between strength and sensitivity. Her statement streetwear implies she has an understanding of gender-based hypocrisies. She plays with using traditionally hyper-masculine models to show her pieces in softer luxe fabrics than she’s previously used. Sportswear silhouettes surprise in satins, textured furs and delicate hand-woven lace come off as carnal on sculpted bodies, there’s a raw sexuality to the designs evoking power through dress. Stick-straight flowing wigs pair with weighted biker boots. Drop crotch pants balance ab-bearing basketball tops swathed in mixed fur outerwear. The looks can be challenging, but the crystalline colours she uses infuse the line with fantasy. Icy blues bring to mind cold stares in Only God Forgives. Surrounded in swirling gold, ochre and turquoise, sweatpants with snaps become opulent. I imagine even the more sartorially adventurous men I know veering away from the one-shoulder black leotard top, but as separates, the marbled brocade pants styled with it are wearable. The Andersen man is surely confident, he listens to Missy, he’s the boyfriend I wanted to borrow clothes from in 1998.
Andersen’s focused vision is realized in the “Astrid” branding emblazoning the mode’s hems, a call to the archetypes of American hip hop culture she grew up worshipping. With hip hop working as the culturally dominant force in pop music, space is created for work like this to flourish. Her basketball-esque logo painted the collection, melting into a jacquard, and lined the chairs in the audience. She’s repping herself.
The Pick: Full length mink and fox fur parka that closed the show, custom made for A$AP Rocky.