New York and London Fashion Weeks have come and gone and Milan Fashion Week ends today. I’ve had the opportunity to view and obsess over a ton of exciting and truly beautiful collections, as well as some uninspired and poorly-executed ones. An attempt was made to cull the most fashion forward and personally appealing looks from the shows so far and present them to you here.
The looks seen above were chosen from one of my favourite collections from NYFW, by American designer Jeremy Scott. Tapping into the as-popular-as-ever sportswear trend and infusing it with his trademark tongue-in-cheek style, the collection is varied texturally and looks super fun to wear, even for the non-Kpop star crowd. Cozy is the name of the game this season and I’ve yet to see anything I’d rather drape myself with than those bomb-ass fuzzy sports jersey knits.
One of the many designers dabbling in the grey arts this season is Australian designer Dion Lee, who delivered a soft, sun-faded punch with his second collection for New York Fashion Week. Looooove the severity of the folded sleeve coat. Very Margiela-like. The mohair cropped turtleneck with the high-waisted pink trousers look perfect for spring; I plan on copying this entire look with the help of Zara and Value Village. The workers’ dungarees paired with the polished chapeau is an unexpectedly cute + cool combination. But none of them compares to the spectacular nude and silver marvel of the second to last look. Made from cut-up snakeskin strips, the techno harness and its high shine is the ideal contrast to sheer chiffon and bare skin.
The colours of the season, in their various tones and shades, have so far been blue and pink. Joseph Altuzarra used them to their full potential in what will likely become the star pieces of his AW 2014 collection: the double sided cashmere coats. Cut beautifully and sized just a little too big, the coats project easy elegance and look cozy enough to take a nap in.
At Rebecca Minkoff, the decision to paint the models’ lips in bordeaux was probably motivated by the colour palette of the clothes. The ice blues and dusty pinks look especially fresh paired with the deep red. If only their shoe game was as on point.
Edun’s girls came stomping down the runway in what were to me the best shoes of the season. The feather-woven Adidas Stan Smiths immediately caught my eye with their cozy look and luxurious feels. The herringbone booties, produced in collaboration with Manolo Blahnik, were also appealing in an edgy sort of way but didn’t wholly cohere with the slouchy, lounge wear element of the collection. That Danielle Sherman, head designer for Edun, has previously designed for The Row surprises absolutely no one. The all-over knits, alpaca trousers, and teddy bear coats were the ultimate in pared-down femininity.
3.1 Phillip Lim
Phillip Lim, like all great fashion designers, can make unexpected, even clashing colours look exquisite together. Mustard with peach and wine. Brown with lavender and baby blue. Sure. Why not? Especially when they paint baby soft shearling and buttery smooth leather.
Natalie Ratabesi is doing great things at Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti. The line that has always been more romantic than hard-edged has really dialed back its frou frou factor in recent seasons, with excellent results. Sure, the clothes still drape and float like classic Philosophy. But due to fashion’s shift towards more 90s influences, as well as Ratabesi’s more contemporary vision of the Philosophy woman, the clothes seem to drape and float with more purpose than ever before. Gauzy, barely-there merino knits hug the model’s curves in an alluring way. Soft blush slips and furs look luxurious, and their sweetness is tempered by slicked back hair and burnt orange eyelids.
Theory (formerly Theysken’s Theory)
Olivier Theyskens’ first collection for the recently-consolidated Theory was a lesson in balanced crowd-pleasing. No doubt designing for your own label versus designing for a label with a long tradition and distinct brand ethos are two very different beasts, and the latter carries with it a tremendous amount of pressure to make clothes that will sell to its existing clientele. Olivier Theyskens more than lived up to the public’s expectations, delivering sophisticated and elegant clothes that follow the design spirit of Theory to a T, without shedding his distinctly Theyskensian flourishes and quirks. Perfectly cut suits give way to a flutter of sheer ruffles. Pristine white shirts tucked into thigh-revealing romantic skirts. A for-the-office sweater and trouser combo topped with an organza trench. Much like a well-coiffed mullet, the looks in this collection were very “business in front, party in the back”.
Calvin Klein Collection
Who can think of the 90s without picturing Doc Martens, shaggy cardigans, and those cutting-edge Calvin Klein ads with ultimate 90s waif, Kate Moss? Francisco Costa manages to make references to all of those things, plus the label’s own history, in designing for its AW 2014 collection. The result is something unlike anything I’ve seen from Costa before that is also quintessentially CK. How he manages to make a collection composed mostly of knits look so strong is a mystery to me.
Turtlenecks continue to be a hot layering piece for this season, even showing up in the King of Weirdo Silhouette, a.k.a. J.W. Anderson’s collection. Worn under the corduroy top and midi skirt of the first look, it came across graceful and shapely, tying the architectural shapes together nicely.
If you’re still unsure of the foothold that sweater dressing has on the fashion world at the moment, even after Calvin Klein and The Row and Edun, Joseph’s floppy yet architectural knits should have you convinced. The knitwear looks cozy and also somewhat intimidating. See how they constrict the models’ limbs, holding them down as if they’re wearing straitjackets. The all grey ensembles, although austere, also look appropriate for a weekend at your ruggedly handsome BF’s cabin in the Catskills.
The mother of prints, Mary Katrantzou, played with signs and emblems for her AW 2014 collection with great ingenuity. Love how dramatic the floor length dresses are. Also love how much her innovative collage work makes me want to wear a girly dress.
As a whole, Costume National’s AW 2014 collection was nothing to write home about. But there were still lots of looks to love. The trouser with elastic ankles, cut like sweat pants, were a personal favourite. As were the stacked brogues. The stand out piece was the tuxedo dress worn with a pair of cropped pants. The skirt and pants combo, much like all 90s trends, is still having its moment in the sun. Although it’s refreshing to see it here in a polished evening look, as opposed to its messier iterations from previous decades.
There was something untamed about the Rochas woman this season. Her hair wild, her clothes wrinkled, her skirt slung low. But still there was a defiant air about her, shining brilliantly through her messy, wispy bangs. The pieces themselves are incredibly intricate, the dress in the middle especially so. Made from wool-brushed tulle and worn with a gold crown, the garment is a show stopper but stays grounded with the help of a pair of pink brogues.
All photos taken from style.com