Two designers I’m showcasing in my imaginary shop, as I can’t find one stocking them in Toronto yet. I get it, their work is pretty rarefied. There aren’t clear access points to put it on a hook for the average consumer, but I’m staying tuned for when they inevitably roll in.
Who: Phoebe English
Where: London, New York, West Hollywood, Hong Kong
What: Fresh from her “New Fashion Venture Award” win, Phoebe English’s whisper is turning into a roar. Her obsession with construction lends to a focus on precision and beauty. She uses engineered fabrics to interact heavily with the movement of the female body. Semi-sheers in gauzy weight assert force in architectural shapes. How the materials behave and communicate with one another is taken into account, their juxtaposition makes visual conversation. Employing lost, forgotten and little-used techniques, she favours calculated assembly over decoration.
Sights: English’s fashion film work with collaborator Rose Easton.
Who: Nasir Mazhar
Where: London, Copenhagen, Paris, Milan, Moscow, New York, LA, Tokyo, Seoul
What: A master of twisted street-culture hyperbole, milliner Nasir Mazhar has advanced his form again this year. Every time I see a new line from him, I feel like I’m in a video game. I want to wear his clothes to be one of his heroes, I want to level up. Sport, religion, mythology, hip hop, fetish and cartoon references broaden his imagery this season. The Bane-like gasmasks in his menswear and metal mouthpieces in his women’s tie the members of his London-centric tribe into one. Dazed called Mazhar’s models a “girl grime gang,” so. I’m in.
Sounds: Darq E. Freaker, Lioness, Shystie, Wiley
Who will have them: Serpentine, Nomad, The Room, Jonathan & Olivia
Let us know if you see them.
(images via phoebeenglish.com and nasirmazhar.com)