After the endless PR chatter and corporate branding of fashion month, it’s a relief to discover the directional works of under-the-radar designers who let the clothes speak for themselves. It’s especially a treat when the garments appeal so much to my personal tastes. Yes, if you’ve visited this blog before, you probably know that monochrome and unconventional shapes are two of my favourite things in fashion design. German designer Melitta Baumeister (top) and Taiwanese designer Bei Kuo (bottom), both graduates of Parsons the New School for Design, have each designed SS15 collections that pack plenty of both. Be sure to click after the jump for complete lookbooks from both collections.
BA from Shih Chien University in Taipei. MA from Parsons the New School for Design. Design workshop at Central Saint Martins. Design assistant at SDOD.
The collection, named The End of the World, prominently features the phrase “YOU DO NOT EXIST” embossed on neoprene jackets and pants. Wanting her work to come from deeply personal and emotional experiences, rather than conceptual and elevated ideas, Bei based this collection on ugly experiences that haunt her that she’d like to free herself from, hence “YOU DO NOT EXIST”.
Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto, Rick Owens, Jeremy Scott, and Shayne Oliver.
MFA from Parsons the New School for Design. Designed and showed her first collection for VFILES Made Fashion at New York Fashion Week last season.
Baumeister’s greatest influence is materiality. Employing techniques from sculpture and architecture, she is renowned for manufacturing clothes from continuous layers of silicone, devoid of seams. This, in turn, affects the shapes of her garments, which are voluminous, exaggerated, and moves unlike conventional garments sewn from fabric. The silicone molds she casts to create her pieces are easily duplicated, which “then becomes a metaphor for the repetitiveness of the fashion industry itself.”
Sculpture, hyperreality, technology