Raf Simons for Christian Dior
Oh pre-fall. That stylistically ambiguous season between Autumn Winter and Spring Summer. Is it late summer? Is it post-winter? Or is it all just a made-up season in between the massive production of AW and SS runway shows—much like Resort—designed to increase sales for brands while not adhering to any season at all?
Judging by the wide variety of looks seen above, I’m willing to bet on the latter. Pulled from a few of the better collections I came across, these looks run the gamut from luxe furs to barely-there crop tops. Raf Simons even presented his Dior runway show with fake snow. As ridiculous as the idea of snow before fall is, it’s important to judge pre-fall for what it is—seasonless collections that stay on the shelves longer than AW and SS collections, which means it’s even more important that these pieces make money.
As such, designers tend to experiment less with pre-fall and resort collections, which can be good or bad. For brands like 3.1 Philip Lim, Chloé, and Derek Lam, going back to classics worked in their favour, as all three collections were elegant and wearable without being bland. The Dior collection not as successful, in my opinion. Although there were some stunning textures (that patent blue coat tho) and the sequin layers were a bold touch, there wasn’t a whole lot from the collection that I actually wanted to wear. I wasn’t a fan of the exaggerated hips, which screamed “a man designed this”. Not many women want to wear a garment that accentuates their hips, even someone with a shapeless body like me. The runway show itself, which took place in Tokyo last week, was spectacular, as was the eye make-up, milkmaid braids, and soundtrack. Simons employed a lot of techniques that were historic to the House of Dior, but it felt like he spent more effort on the process and the presentation than on the designs themselves. I will say that the clothes look a million times better in motion though, so be sure to check out the complete runway show. Maybe I’m just complaining because I much preferred Raf Simons as a menswear designer and creative director at Jil Sander.
Stay tuned for coverage of more collections in the coming days.
All images via style.com