Kanye West presented his debut collection for Adidas Originals yesterday on day 1 of New York Fashion Week. The collection was full of aggressively bare body stockings, military outerwear, and post-apocalyptic lounge suits. Inspired by the London riots, the garments were super stripped down, favouring functionality and uniformity over flashiness and embellishments.
‘Ye described it as the world’s first “solution-based” clothing line. No doubt these are clothes designed to make survival in a problematic contemporary world a little easier, but they’re hardly the world’s first. If anything, Kanye is simply tapping into a shift that’s been quietly brewing in fashion for some time. Designers like Eckhaus Latta and Moses Gauntlett Cheng (seen in the above editorial) have been making cozy, dystopian chic garments for a few seasons now. While Eckhaus Latta achieves the post-apocalyptic feel of their clothes by using unconventional synthetic materials (perhaps salvaged from abandoned hospitals and hardware stores in this fantasy world I’m imagining), Moses Gauntlett Cheng’s clothes look thoroughly organic, as if pieced together in a dystopian/utopian future after civilization is brought back to its natural, more tribal roots.
OK, so maybe I’ve watched 2001 one too many times. I think I just like the clothes. I love their undone quality, and how photographer Logan Jackson shot the models wearing them. These are clothes made for chillaxing, so why not capture pretty people doing exactly that in them?
Images via Editorial magazine