New York fashion week is over. As the fashion set jets off to London‘s more experimental pastures, we here at The Pack wanted to assess everything we saw in the past week. With all the hype surrounding Kanye West’s collection for Adidas Originals, the accessories frenzy over at HBA, and all the fuss about Tom Ford moving his (underwhelming)collection to Los Angeles, it’s easy to forget the actual clothes, especially ones as practical and literally ready to wear as the ones presented during NYFW. There weren’t a whole lot of surprises. Lots of beautifully executed 70s details from the usually safe players—Ralph Lauren, Rebecca Minkoff, Calvin Klein—and even from the usually not-so-safe players like Altuzarra and Zimmermann. Lots of earthy browns seen everywhere from Victoria Beckham to Calvin Klein to Derek Lam. Never thought I’d be drooling over brown, of all colours. And of course, plenty of fur collars and fur in general, at Altuzarra, Jason Wu, Michael Kors, and 3.1 Phillip Lim.
For obvious reasons, the collections that stood out the most were ones that strayed from the recurring themes of this fashion month, or ones who articulated their influences in a subtle way. Inspired by a new collection of photographs by Spike Jonze, Opening Ceremony‘s collection featured whispers of the 70s shape (in the way of flute hems and high turtlenecks) with plenty of other motifs thrown into the mix. There were prints and jacquards produced from Jonze’s photographs (not as gauche as it sounds actually), vintage Kodak printed shirts, and assymetrical knits that felt more 90s than disco. At The Row and Ryan Roche, garments were hardcore relaxed and executed with precise hands, but we all know both labels have been on this tip for a minute now. The all over pleats at HBA were unlike anything I’ve seen before. And the grunge meets sporty utilitarian looks at Public School seemed simultaneously nostalgic and unfamiliar.
I was excited to see one of the more diverse New York Fashion Weeks in a while. No idea if this signals something industry-wide or if it’s just in New York, which is usually the most racially diverse out of the four fashion weeks anyway. I’m crossing my fingers for London, but probably not holding my breath for Paris and Milan.
Click after the jump for more pictures of The Pack’s favourite collections from New York Fashion Week.
Public School (womenswear only)
Backstage photos via Dazed, runway photos via style.com