L-R: Mary Katrantzou; Issa; Helen Lawrence for Fashion East
L-R: Iceberg; Adeam; Iceberg
L-R: Thomas Tait; Vionnet; Christian Wijnants
We spied enough splotchy amoeba shapes adorning S/S 2015 lines to hail them a bit of a Spring micro-trend. Perhaps taking cues from cult-label Jacquemus‘ playful atomic ameoba fixation over the past few seasons, designers like Adeam and Helen Lawrence plastered dresses with huge amorphous patches. Issa and Mary Katrantzou featured wavy fissures that morphed throughout their designs while Thomas Tait and Christian Wijnants played with inconsistent protozoan patterns. At Iceberg and Vionnet delicate cellular appliqués and lacework were especially astounding.
L-R: Emilio de la Morena; House of Holland; Emilio de la Morena; House of Holland
London fashion week was having a major post-Valentine come down with the wave of saccharine red & pink looks that pulsed through its runways. Using velvets and a bit of patent, Emilo de la Morena‘s take was especially successful. The colour scheme was punchy at House of Holland, grown up at Issa and Jonathan Saunders, and luxurious in trendy patchworked furs at Topshop Unique. Ashley Williams‘ take for Fashion East looked defiantly teenage with baggy red leather pants and a pink contrast ringer t.
I am a bit afraid of how this trend will be diffused onto the fast fashion racks. Like reduced price Valentine’s Day chocolate, it’s probably best consumed in moderation.
L-R: Christopher Kane; Fyodor Golan; Christopher Kane
Every fashion week has seen strong vinyl looks this season, but none have been quite as expertly sleazy as London’s. Christopher Kane dominated with the majority of his matte nylon dresses contrasting subtly with ruched and baggy PVC overcoats. Disheveled models in slick vinyl skirt suits sauntered down a runway perfectly located in a deserted London office building. The cavernous space provided a sterile backdrop for beyond 9-5 dressing. At Fyodor Golan, the scene was decidedly after-hours, where severe head-to-toe vinyl outfits shone holographic in the spotlights. Set atop plush pink astroturf the carnal stylings juxtaposed a sense of pleasure and pain. In contrast, the a-line vinyl pieces at Erdem and the midi PVC circle skirts at Emilio de la Morena look as if they were made for the madam.