Iris Van Herpen AW15 at Paris Fashion Week

iris1 iris2 iris3 iris4 iris5 iris6 iris7Screen-Shot-2015-03-11-at-7.41.09-PMScreen-Shot-2015-03-11-at-7.39.40-PMThe construction alone is enough to make me faint. Add to that the flattering silhouettes, the shimmery colour palette, and those incredibly sculpted shoes, and it’s enough to knock me out for life.

Yah, I know I’m doing that thing where I exaggerate for effect. But I am being completely truthful when I say this was the most creative and technically brilliant ready-to-wear collection I have seen in a long time. In many ways, the techniques and the spirit of these garments evoke the painstaking process involved in the creation of haute couture collections. Like haute couture, van Herpen’s AW15 collection is made from high quality, unusual fabrics, looks custom fit and individually handmade with an obsessive attention to detail.  Inspired by the theory of terraforming—the modification of another planet’s biosphere to resemble our own—van Herpen created new fabrications by modifying existing materials and playing with 3D printing, which you can see in the leather-crystal shoes and the fantastical geometric black dresses.

The effect is pure sci-fi fantasy, minus the theatrics. Garments are delicate without being fussy. Van Herpen strikes this balance with her excellent sense for fit. I’m just as impressed with how well the clothes sit on the models’ bodies as I am with the innovative design. It might seem like a no-brainer, but fit is that subtle difference between a good and an incredible collection. Kudos to Iris van Herpen for getting it so right.

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FW Trend Watch: Layered Bustiers


L-R: Jacquemus; J.W. Anderson; Marni

Bustiers layered over or inlaid in modest tops were a mini trend seen prominently at J.W. Anderson, Yang Li, and Iris van Herpen. Each of the designers matched this pairing with long, bulky, monochromatic skirts for a commanding overall look. At Jacquemus and Marni the layered bustiers and bandeaus were one-offs, but styled in a strikingly similar way with baggy skirts and practical shoes. The  usual vampy sex appeal of corseting details is absorbed by layers of rigid  fabrics in each of the designers’ efforts. Even Jaqcuemus’ more youthful rendition sees a sheer fabric underlay take the form of a billowing turtleneck that does not distract from an overall  minimalist slacker vibe.

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