The Row Spring Summer 2016

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The Olsen twins have consistently wowed me as designers and stylists since the inception of their cozy-luxe label The Row. Now that the brand has moved their show from their home base in New York to Paris, it’s nice to see that the quality has remained unchanged and distinctly The Row. Sure, there are a few more body skimming pieces than in past seasons. But the Row woman still displays a demure grace, even in a bum-grazing micro-mini.

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Vetements Spring Summer 2016

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Vetements, fashion’s new label du jour, has had a bit of a banner year. Finalist in this year’s LVMH Prize for Young Designers, hyped to shit by literally everyone in fashion, hugely responsible for the super long and baggy trend, and co-signs from both Rihanna and Kanye. Pretty impressive.

Well, Vetements’ head designer Demna Gvasalia just got an even bigger boost. Days after Alexander Wang’s final collection for Balenciaga (after a very underwhelming but brief period as the brand’s creative director), the iconic French fashion house named Gvasalia its new artistic director. Looking at Vetements’ Spring Summer 2016 collection, seen above, we can expect a pretty big change in the artistic direction at Balenciaga, which is probably a good thing. Vetements takes inspiration from punk rock’s DIY mentality and repurposes it in a very tongue-in-cheek way. It’s especially compelling in its mix of high and low. The collection includes everything from Star Wars printed JNCO-like pants, nightgown-inspired dresses, romantic florals, badass biker outfits, stylish sweatsuits, every colour of the rainbow, and leather aprons that look as inspired by butcher uniforms as they are by bondage wear. It’s not the most beautiful thing you’ll see on the runway—far from it. But after the snoozey past few seasons at Balenciaga, I think everyone is ready for a little more IDGAF attitude and unpredictability at Balenciaga.

What do you guys think about this news?

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Iris Van Herpen AW15 at Paris Fashion Week

iris1 iris2 iris3 iris4 iris5 iris6 iris7Screen-Shot-2015-03-11-at-7.41.09-PMScreen-Shot-2015-03-11-at-7.39.40-PMThe construction alone is enough to make me faint. Add to that the flattering silhouettes, the shimmery colour palette, and those incredibly sculpted shoes, and it’s enough to knock me out for life.

Yah, I know I’m doing that thing where I exaggerate for effect. But I am being completely truthful when I say this was the most creative and technically brilliant ready-to-wear collection I have seen in a long time. In many ways, the techniques and the spirit of these garments evoke the painstaking process involved in the creation of haute couture collections. Like haute couture, van Herpen’s AW15 collection is made from high quality, unusual fabrics, looks custom fit and individually handmade with an obsessive attention to detail.  Inspired by the theory of terraforming—the modification of another planet’s biosphere to resemble our own—van Herpen created new fabrications by modifying existing materials and playing with 3D printing, which you can see in the leather-crystal shoes and the fantastical geometric black dresses.

The effect is pure sci-fi fantasy, minus the theatrics. Garments are delicate without being fussy. Van Herpen strikes this balance with her excellent sense for fit. I’m just as impressed with how well the clothes sit on the models’ bodies as I am with the innovative design. It might seem like a no-brainer, but fit is that subtle difference between a good and an incredible collection. Kudos to Iris van Herpen for getting it so right.

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