Vetements, fashion’s new label du jour, has had a bit of a banner year. Finalist in this year’s LVMH Prize for Young Designers, hyped to shit by literally everyone in fashion, hugely responsible for the super long and baggy trend, and co-signs from both Rihanna and Kanye. Pretty impressive.
Well, Vetements’ head designer Demna Gvasalia just got an even bigger boost. Days after Alexander Wang’s final collection for Balenciaga (after a very underwhelming but brief period as the brand’s creative director), the iconic French fashion house named Gvasalia its new artistic director. Looking at Vetements’ Spring Summer 2016 collection, seen above, we can expect a pretty big change in the artistic direction at Balenciaga, which is probably a good thing. Vetements takes inspiration from punk rock’s DIY mentality and repurposes it in a very tongue-in-cheek way. It’s especially compelling in its mix of high and low. The collection includes everything from Star Wars printed JNCO-like pants, nightgown-inspired dresses, romantic florals, badass biker outfits, stylish sweatsuits, every colour of the rainbow, and leather aprons that look as inspired by butcher uniforms as they are by bondage wear. It’s not the most beautiful thing you’ll see on the runway—far from it. But after the snoozey past few seasons at Balenciaga, I think everyone is ready for a little more IDGAF attitude and unpredictability at Balenciaga.
What do you guys think about this news?
Images via Vogue.com
Yesterday, the LVMH judging committee announced the eight finalists for this year’s LVMH Prize for Young Designers. Culled from a preliminary list of 26 fashion wunderkinds—including Pack-approved designers like Andrea Jiapei Li, Ximon Lee, Astrid Andersen, Nasir Mazhar, Ryan Roche, and Baja East—the eight finalists include three Brits (Craig Green, Faustine Steinmetz and Marques’ Almeida), three LVMH Prize alums (Almeida, Jacquemus, and Green were all 2014 semi-finalists), and one menswear designer (Green). The LVMH Prize for Young Designers is one of the only design contests in the world that has no geographic restrictions, accepting submissions from all over the world. We’ve got Milan-based Austrian designer Arthur Arbesser, Paris-based American designer Virgil Abloh, French designers Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant for Coperni, and Paris-based German designer Demna Gvasalia for Vetements. It’s missing a lot of designers of colour or designers from anywhere outside of Europe. But hey is anyone surprised?
Last year’s winner was Thomas Tait, one of my favourite designers and someone I bring up constantly when I talk about what’s wrong with the fashion scene in Canada that we’d lose a talent like that. The prize—30,000 euros in cash and a year of mentorship with LVMH experts—is life changing for an emerging designer, and you can see that tremendous change reflected in Tait’s incredible AW15 collection at London Fashion Week. The judging panel includes a who’s who of fashion industry titans like Karl Lagerfeld, Nicolas Ghesquière, Riccardo Tisci, and Raf Simons.
While there’s something to be loved from every single one of these collections, I can’t help but play favourites. Aside from designers like Marques’Almeida and Jacquemus, both having received a ton of praise from The Pack, new favourites include Arthus Arbesser and his ingenious way with fabrics, Coperni and its finely-executed minimalism, Faustine Steinmetz’s neo-denim, and Vetements’ jaw-dropping coats. Check out a visual breakdown of each finalist’s designs and be sure to comment on your favourites!
Images via Dazed, Faustine Steinmetz, Coperni, Arthur Arbesser, Marques’Almeida, LVMH, and style.com